After spending 2 weeks in the Canary Islands, Louis reflects on this first crossing on his rowboat :

It has been more than two weeks since I returned to solid ground, in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. These 20 days on the ocean have brought me difficult moments, but have also allowed me to learn a lot.

The first 2 days are tough, and I’m feeling seasick again. Moreover, I’m putting a lot of pressure on myself, as it’s already my second departure, and I really want to make it this time.

For the first 3 days, I encounter breaking waves and cross seas, which are really not ideal for rowing. I think to myself, ‘Is it always like this?’. Finally, it calms down a bit and I can finally get into a good rhythm. I realize that I might have started out a bit too strong, because after 6 days, I’m already quite tired. I take advantage of this by having a day with only 3 hours of effort to recover.

After the 10th day, I feel a blow to my morale and face loneliness and the elements. Time passes so slowly, it feels like I’m standing still. Sunday, November 26, is my calmest day and I muster the courage to go into the water and clean the hull. Being alone on a rowboat and going into the water is terrifying. I look down and see the infinite blue that almost makes me dizzy. After this adrenaline rush, I take the opportunity to try to get my Starlink antenna working and finally give some news. And it works! What a pleasure to be able to do a live session with my community.

As the days go by, I finally see the Canary Islands. It’s a mental boost to be approaching solid ground.

Two days before my destination of Las Palmas, I realize there’s a chance I might arrive at night. This is a big stress for me, as it’s a large marina with cargo ships and tankers. I do my utmost to stay on course and not go too fast so I can arrive during the day. I hardly sleep at all for 48 hours.

As I approach the huge entrance of the port, I pray not to encounter any cargo ships. My AIS indicates the entrance is clear. I skirt along the edge of the entrance and cut close to the starboard buoy to avoid rocks on the other side. Just as I enter, a massive MSC cargo ship starts up and heads towards me. I panic immensely because I can barely control the boat with the wind and waves. Fortunately, I manage to just pass by it. Now, I have to row one nautical mile to the marina against the wind, with sailboats and windsurfers all around. I experience immense stress, not wanting to damage my boat. It takes me nearly an hour to reach the marina. I call channel 11 on the radio to announce my arrival, and they respond: “Anchor and take your dinghy, there’s a waiting list of several days.” Exhausted, I decide to go in anyway. I tie up at the reception and collapse on the dock. Everyone comes over, and the marina staff, realizing I have a rowboat, are super cool with me, offering water and a beer. They’re so kind they find me a spot right in front of the reception. At the same time, I meet a Swiss couple I had met in Portugal, who offer me to sleep on their sailboat and a good meal. What a joy! An arrival full of emotions. Several times I considered asking to be towed, but in the end, I made it on my own.

Now, I have been able to rest well and take the time on land to recharge my batteries and repair my boat. I’ve experienced a lot of emotions and many positives in this first part, and it’s with more experience that I’m preparing to set off again soon, this time towards the Caribbean !